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Pasta Making 101



Feel like taking on a fun and totally rewarding (and maybe a little bit time consuming) project this weekend?

Good! Let's make pasta!

That's right, pasta all the way from scratch.

Not only are we making fresh pasta, we're making fresh FILLED pasta.

Oooooh! Aaaaaaah!

That's what your friends will be saying when you serve this long time favorite of Italian grandmothers.

Wanna know a little secret?

I'm not even Italian!

But that doesn't matter, we can still make some really tasty pasta together.

Fresh pasta is something really special.

It has a feather-light texture and this unmistakable bite that is unlike anything else. Definitely something you can't get in a box.

I use a combination of semolina and all purpose flours. Semolina is milled from durum wheat and is typically the flour used in Italy for pasta making.

When I make pressed pasta I use a dough containing only semolina, salt and water, but that's for another post.

For filled pastas I use a blend of flours because the gluten in the all purpose flour helps when it comes to rolling the dough out. I also use an egg enriched dough because it's a little heartier and has a more luxurious feel than dried pasta. I really like homemade pasta to be an out of the ordinary experience.

Typically Italian grandmothers (and any other serious pasta makers) will tell you that making a mound of four on your work surface and working the liquid in via the well method is the only way to go. While I tend to agree, I happen to have a very counter-conscious dad who despises dirty kitchen counters.  Without fail he'll run his hands over the counter after a cooking project and make this unmistakable "MADDY! There is still grime all over this" face. So needless to say, I used a bowl to try and avoid said situation.

Using a fork (or even better your hands) gradually incorporate the wet into the dry, forming a shaggy dough.
As with all shaggy doughs, we knead!

Knead knead knead until the dough is silky smooth and not sticky. Pasta dough needs a lot of kneading (no pun intended) so don't be afraid to really get in there. Consider it your upper body workout for the day :)

When the dough is supple and smoothed out, wrap it in plastic and let it rest for at least 30 minutes to let the gluten relax.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling(s).

I decided to do two different filling in two different shapes. I wasn't really planning on this, but mom informed me that the boys probably wouldn't appreciate the artichoke ravioli I had in mind, so on the fly I whipped up some sausage tortellini for the boys. Men and their need for meat...

Anyways, for the artichoke filling I sauteed onions and artichokes in a little butter, and when they were soft and starting to caramelize, deglazed the pan with white wine. 

While that mixture cooled, I prepared the rest if the ingredients and then combined it all in the food processor. 

Then i just pulsed away until a chunky filling formed.

By the time the filling was done, the pasta was ready to roll!

I think this is one of my favorite parts. I divided my ball of dough into quarters and wrapped the rest up to keep it from drying out. Then I began working the dough through the pasta machine, one setting at a time until it is rolled into one long sheet on the thinnest setting. 

Before you can begin moving the dial on the pasta machine, the dough must be rolled and folded a number of times on the widest setting to condition it for rolling. I pass it through about six times, folding it in thirds wallet-style each time. Once the dough is passing through without stretching or sticking, you can begin reducing the thickness, adding flour as needed. Remember to keep the area where you plan to fill your ravioli floured too or they will stick!

Once your sheet of dough is rolled out on the thinnest setting, cut it in half so that you have a top and bottom for your ravioli. On the bottom sheet, lightly press your cookie cutter into the dough to get an idea of spacing and then fill each circle imprint with a scant teaspoon of filling. You don't want to overfill these guys or they won't hold together when you cook them.

When all the imprints are filled on the bottom sheet, dip your finger in a bowl of water and trace all the circles. This will function as glue to hold the raviolis together.

Pick up the top sheet and drape it over the bottom. Try to press all the air out of each circle before pressing the edges to adhere. When all the air has been pushed out, cut the ravioli with your circle cutter and transfer to a semolina or parchment lined cookie sheet. The ravioli are now ready to be cooked and enjoyed or frozen for later! 


Now are you ready for a shape that's a little more complex?
Enter tortellini. 

Despite looking tricky, these little purses are actually pretty simple to shape.
They start out similarly to ravioli, with a long sheet rolled out on the thinnest setting. But instead of filling and then cutting, tortellini start with cut circles. A mere half teaspoon of filling goes in the middle and then folding can commence.
 First, the circle is folded in half. Like the ravioli, use water for glue here. Then flip the half circle over so the smooth side faces up and pinch the two corners together along the bottom. Use a dab of water on each point and squeeze together. What you end up with is a bunch of beautiful tortellini!

So now that you have this beautiful homemade pasta, how do you serve it?

Don't you dare even think about that jar of Prego in the fridge. 

This is special stuff, and it deserves an equally special sauce.

Even if it's as simple as being tossed with some good olive oil or butter, fresh herbs, and a hearty sprinkle of sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, the sauce you serve this with has to let the pasta shine.

For the bright and lemony artichoke ravioli, I opted for a simple tomato-white wine sauce.
Lovely fresh ingredients are the perfect complement to such a delicate filled pasta.

Everything is simply simmered together allowing the flavors to meld.
When the sauce is almost ready, I throw the ravioli in a pot of salted boiling water for a mere 3 minutes. I fish them out with a skimmer, and allow them to finish cooking for just a minute in the sauce. Right before serving I toss in a pat of butter and a handful of fresh parsley right at the end to add some silkiness to the sauce and a bright pop of green.

Just top with a little freshly grated Parmigiana and serve.

This is a dish truly worth celebrating. The lightly acidic sauce is the perfect complement to the tender ravioli. It is light enough that it enhances rather than outshines the artichoke filling. Fresh herbs add visual appeal and an earthy freshness while the dusting of cheese adds a mild salty bite.

This is heaven on earth, a true delight for the senses. Enjoy with good bread, great wine, and even better company.

Seriously, if you have time for a project this weekend, this is definitely one well worth the effort.

I hope I've inspired you to break out your inner Italian grandmother and step outside your comfort zone.
Enjoy!

~Maddy

Artichoke Ravioli
inspired by Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen

Basic Semolina Egg Pasta
Ingredients
2 Large Eggs
1 Cup Semolina 
1/2 Cup all purpose flour plus 1/2 cup for bench work and dusting
2 Tbsp Olive Oil
2 Tbsp Water
1/2 Tsp Salt

Mix all ingredients well with a fork or with your hands in a large bowl till a sticky dough forms.

Turn out the dough onto a floured surface and proceed to knead, adding flour as needed to aid in the process or absorb excess moisture.  Proceed to knead for 10 minutes.

Once the dough is smooth on the outside place it a plastic bag and let it rest for 30 min or overnight if desired.

Once rested, start with the largest setting and then run a quarter of the dough through, dusting the pasta with flour first and in between. Fold in thirds and repeat this 6 times. Proceed to run sheeted pasta through the rollers going down each number on the dial until the thinnest setting is reached.

Cut the long thin strip in half, forming a top and bottom sheet. Place mounds of filling, using a cookie cutter for spacing, along the dough. Trace around the circles with a finger dipped in water. Align the top sheet with the bottom, and press the air out of the ravioli by pressing with your fingers. Once the air is out, press to seal. Cut each ravioli out with the cookie cutter and place on a semolina lined cookie sheet. Cook in boiling salted water for 3 minutes, or freeze on the cookie sheet until hard and transfer to a ziploc bag for later. Store in the freezer until ready to cook.

Artichoke Filling
Ingredients
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 small onion, chopped (1/2 cup)
1 (10-oz) box frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry1 oz finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup)1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1 large egg yolk1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice1/4 teaspoon salt1/4 teaspoon black pepper



Heat butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then saute onion, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 6 minutes. Add artichoke hearts and saute, stirring occasionally, until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.
Transfer all but 3/4 cup artichoke mixture to cleaned bowl of processor (reserve remaining artichoke mixture in skillet), then add cheese, parsley, yolk, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and pulse until mixture is coarsely chopped.

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